Buying a travel trailer - advice please

musika

Everybody wants to be a cat.
Joined
Oct 30, 2017
It's going to be a long time before we're brave enough to attempt RV'ing to Florida, but hoping to get our first travel trailer this summer. We have a small family, kids aged 6 and almost 3. We've narrowed down what we're looking for:

- Something we can tow with our existing Dakota, which is rated for 7000 lbs gross weight.
- Due to our tow limitations, likely looking at 22 ft or smaller.
-DH has struck hybrids and pop-ups from the list.
- We'd like to have bunks for the kids and not have to put down a table every night.
- We want something for weekend camp trips rather than parking for the summer in a campground.

What are some of the better brand names to look for? Our budget is around 10-12K CAD so likely looking at buying used. What do you love/hate about trailers this size? Thanks!
 
RvTrader.com is a great place to start. You can put in the specifics of what you are looking for such as type, price, length, make or model to name a few along with the search area that meets your needs. Good luck searching. The DW and I had a great time looking and visiting RV dealerships. Camping is a great way to make family memories. Beware though when you make that first trip to the Fort.........you'll be hooked. The Fort is a vacation all in itself. :thumbsup2:thumbsup2
 
I agree about RvTrader. It is a good place to see pictures and different setups of campers along with weights, heights.

Tell him not to be so strict on some of the hybrids. There are a few that are actually pretty neat and do very well on the weight restrictions. I saw one this past year down at GSP with 3 canvas slide outs that seemed to really open things up but at a reasonable weight range.

I own a Jayco TT, but they are pricey compared to others. Used is not a bad option, especially if starting out. Who knows, you might get started into it and decide it isn't for you and at least buying used you won't be out as much money.
 
Most shows will also have a display of available used units. A good time to look at new ideas and also look into what several dealers have in their used inventory.
 


I agree about RvTrader. It is a good place to see pictures and different setups of campers along with weights, heights.

Tell him not to be so strict on some of the hybrids. There are a few that are actually pretty neat and do very well on the weight restrictions. I saw one this past year down at GSP with 3 canvas slide outs that seemed to really open things up but at a reasonable weight range.

I own a Jayco TT, but they are pricey compared to others. Used is not a bad option, especially if starting out. Who knows, you might get started into it and decide it isn't for you and at least buying used you won't be out as much money.

I think his biggest annoyance with them (and I tend to agree) is that once we get home we'd have to air them out every time to reduce mold/mildew issues on the canvas. Which Jayco do you have? What do you love/hate? It's one of the brand names that has units which seem to fit our needs.

I talked DH into a family trip to an RV show about 2 hours away next weekend, so hopefully walking around a few units will help with the decision process. Thanks for the replies!
 
If 7000 lbs is your gross weight, remember you don't want to be towing at that. We towed a 25 foot bullet with a chevy 1500 to start with. After getting 6 mpg and crawling up hills we decided we needed a bigger truck.
 


If 7000 lbs is your gross weight, remember you don't want to be towing at that. We towed a 25 foot bullet with a chevy 1500 to start with. After getting 6 mpg and crawling up hills we decided we needed a bigger truck.

This is key. Trying to accomplish all of that in a full hard-side trailer is going to be a challenge. It sounds like you are looking for something akin to the Rockwood Mini-Lite category. Some of these use a Murphy Bed to solve the space/bed issues. Another poster just got one. Check out that post for pics.

All in all, make sure you truly understand weights. If you already have a good understanding of them - great. If not, feel free to ask and we can help explain. DO NOT rely on auto or RV dealers to help you discern the safe pairings for your truck. People get backed into a corner all the time by buying a trailer their truck can't handle. Make sure you know your weights and your capacities for gross weight, payload, etc... in order to avoid major headaches moving forward.
 
All in all, make sure you truly understand weights. If you already have a good understanding of them - great. If not, feel free to ask and we can help explain. DO NOT rely on auto or RV dealers to help you discern the safe pairings for your truck. People get backed into a corner all the time by buying a trailer their truck can't handle. Make sure you know your weights and your capacities for gross weight, payload, etc... in order to avoid major headaches moving forward.

Completely agree and we are trying so hard to understand but there is conflicting information everywhere! They definitely don't make this easy.

If anyone is able to help us figure out the math - We have a 2005 Dodge Dakota, Club Cab, 2WD, with Factory tow package. Mr. Google is consistently failing me right now, and the owners manual didn't really help either.

My back of the napkin math looks like we should buy something no larger than 4000 lbs loaded? I think?
 
Completely agree and we are trying so hard to understand but there is conflicting information everywhere! They definitely don't make this easy.

If anyone is able to help us figure out the math - We have a 2005 Dodge Dakota, Club Cab, 2WD, with Factory tow package. Mr. Google is consistently failing me right now, and the owners manual didn't really help either.

My back of the napkin math looks like we should buy something no larger than 4000 lbs loaded? I think?

To be perfectly honest, the only way you will TRULY know your limits is to go to a scale, weigh the truck, and compare that the to numbers posted in your door jam. That said, the Trailer Life Towing Guide from 2005 shows your tow capacity at either 4,850 for the v-6 or 7,150 for the v-8.

So, a couple questions will help...
-What engine do you have?
-What do you think is the total weight of passengers that will ride in the truck?
-How much other 'stuff' will you plan load in the cab or bed of the truck?

If you lay out these answers, I can try to give you a better sense of how your numbers might play out. I love the math - so I'm happy to help! (I know, I'm weird like that!)
 
To be perfectly honest, the only way you will TRULY know your limits is to go to a scale, weigh the truck, and compare that the to numbers posted in your door jam. That said, the Trailer Life Towing Guide from 2005 shows your tow capacity at either 4,850 for the v-6 or 7,150 for the v-8.

So, a couple questions will help...
-What engine do you have?
-What do you think is the total weight of passengers that will ride in the truck?
-How much other 'stuff' will you plan load in the cab or bed of the truck?

If you lay out these answers, I can try to give you a better sense of how your numbers might play out. I love the math - so I'm happy to help! (I know, I'm weird like that!)

While we do have a truck scale nearby, I think it's for commercial use only (We're in Canada if that matters). I asked DH to take a picture of the sticker on the door last night when he looked at it but he forgot, bah. So - more info to come on that front. To answer your questions:

- We have the v-8.
- Total weight of passengers - approx 600 lbs and growing (2 kids. ha.)
- I have no idea, lol. We're intending on short-haul weekend trip-type camping. So we would have some luggage, stuff for kids, whatever doesn't fit in the trailer... wild estimate of 200-300 lbs?

Appreciate the help greatly!!
 
If you like spreadsheets there is a Youtube vlogger that had to do one because he thought his truck would pull what he wanted but it didn't. We are looking into buying a 5th wheel and knew we were going to have to buy a new truck and it was a question of dully and diesel vs. single and gas. My honey has researched the heck out of it. Here is KYD
 
Thanks @loves to dive - I will have a look when I'm home tonight.

To add to my earlier post, there's a 2017 model Jay Flight SLX for sale near to home... Model SLX174BH. Here's the specs from Jayco's website... does this look like it would be a wise choice, or too heavy?

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (lbs)
view-question.png
2945
Dry Hitch Weight (lbs)
view-question.png
280
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (lbs)
view-question.png
3500
Cargo Carrying Capacity (lbs)
view-question.png
620
MEASUREMENTS
Exterior Length 21' 6"
Exterior Width 85"
Exterior Height with A/C 113"
Interior Height 73"
Wheel Base 169 3/4"
TANK CAPACITIES
Fresh Water Capacity (gals) 20
Water Heater 6
Gray Waste Water Capacity (gals) 19.9
Black Waste Water Capacity (gals) 19.9
OTHER
Sleeping Capacity 5
 
Ok, let's look at these numbers in a very general sense...

There are many specifics that you can get focused in on, but in general, you are looking at two things...how much you can PULL and how much you can CARRY. These numbers are related, but distinct.

'Towing capacity' is a reflection of how much you can pull. We can get in to how to get that exact number if you want to later - for now, the trailer life guide says that this will be roughly 7,000 pounds for your truck. So, your trailer, gear in the truck, hitch assembly, passengers, etc... cannot exceed a total weight of 7,000 pounds. Some people (me included) like some cushion built into the weight and try to stay 10-20% below that number, which would put you in the 5,600-6,300 total amount, but that is a personal choice. With this in mind, if we use your numbers above, you are estimating 800-900 pounds of passengers and gear. The hitch will eat up more of that (50-100 pounds), so I would estimate you are in the 800-1,000 pound range of passengers and stuff in addition to the trailer - leaving you 4,500-6,000 pounds for loaded trailer weight depending on your tolerance for being close to maxed out on weight (the biggest issue there is WHERE you are towing - level roads at sea level for shorter trips, less of a problem...traversing the mountains at high altitudes where your gas engine loses power due to thin air, bigger problem!).

Now, 'payload' is the amount your vehicle can carry. This, for you, is going to be the bigger issue. You really can't know this number for sure without going to the scale, but you are likely in the 1,500 range (note that this one does not have the need for a cushion like the towing number, you can readily use 100% of your payload). Your 600 pounds of passenger weight, 200-300 pounds of gear weight, and 50-100 pounds of hitch all come off of this - leaving you 500-600 pounds of capacity for the tongue of the trailer. The trailer tongue, once loaded, will likely run at 13-15 percent of the total trailer weight, which means a 600 pound tongue limits you to a LOADED trailer weight of 4,000-4,500 pounds.

What you can see from all of this is that, for a truck like yours, payload is much more restrictive than towing capacity. Thus, my first recommendation would be to re-think loading strategies. Make sure you get a trailer that can carry most everything you want to take on your trips. Keep your gear, as much as humanly possible, in the trailer and not the truck. That 300 pounds of gear in the truck represents the tongue weight of 2,000 pounds of additional trailer - so it makes a huge difference.

So, in sum (again, with the caveat that the only real way to know is to go to a scale)...
  • If you are towing on flat lands at sea level, are really comfortable towing at your max weights (if you don't have a lot of experience I wouldn't recommend it, but it's your call), AND you buy a trailer that can handle all of your gear (leaving the trailer to just passengers), a LOADED trailer of 5,500 pounds, or even a bit higher, would likely keep you within your ratings but would be pushing it.
  • If you want to keep more gear in your truck, and want to have some cushion in your powertrain (for mountain passes, general comfort, etc...), you would be better advised to star in the 4,500 and under range for a LOADED trailer.
Now, on to the specific trailer you mentioned...
 
Thanks @loves to dive - I will have a look when I'm home tonight.

To add to my earlier post, there's a 2017 model Jay Flight SLX for sale near to home... Model SLX174BH. Here's the specs from Jayco's website... does this look like it would be a wise choice, or too heavy?

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (lbs)
view-question.png
2945
Dry Hitch Weight (lbs)
view-question.png
280
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (lbs)
view-question.png
3500
Cargo Carrying Capacity (lbs)
view-question.png
620
MEASUREMENTS
Exterior Length 21' 6"
Exterior Width 85"
Exterior Height with A/C 113"
Interior Height 73"
Wheel Base 169 3/4"
TANK CAPACITIES
Fresh Water Capacity (gals) 20
Water Heater 6
Gray Waste Water Capacity (gals) 19.9
Black Waste Water Capacity (gals) 19.9
OTHER
Sleeping Capacity 5

If you look at my previous post, I think you can see that my response would be YES when it comes to a match with the truck. That trailer, in everything from total weight to length, would be easily within even the most conservative of the numbers I shared above.

HOWEVER (sorry, but have to point this out)...

I would be extremely wary of a trailer that only has a 500-600 pound carrying capacity. If those are accurate numbers, you have to know that a trailer never comes off the line at it's dry weight. There are 'mandatory options' (they vary from trailer to trailer, but sometimes include things like electric awnings, spare tires, etc...) that are part of the trailer but not part of the dry weight. Then, in addition to that, the dry weight almost never includes things such as full propane tanks, batteries, water or other fluids in any of the tanks, etc... If those numbers are accurate (and that's a big IF - as they are notoriously inaccurate in many ways), that trailer could be sitting on the dealer lot without enough capacity to fill the fresh water tank (a full 30 gallon fw tank will weigh about 250 pounds), much less load your gear for a trip.

It is, most definitely, a trailer your truck could handle, but I'm not sure it's a trailer that could handle you! There is a sticker on the side of the trailer that lists the real weight of the trailer as it sits on the lot (that weight still doesn't include propane), and tells you the real cargo carrying capacity remaining. I would swing by to look at it, or have the dealer send you a picture of it, so that you can get the accurate info. My concern is that there is very little capacity for your gear (which can add up in a hurry). If this is the case, you could be in a position of having to pack more in your truck in order to not overload your trailer, which in turn would eat up your payload and cause you to overload your truck.

In general, a trailer of that size that weighs 1,000 pounds more (but can carry 1,000 pounds of cargo) would be better for your than one that has such a small capacity for cargo.
 
@mickeyfan0805 seriously you have no idea how helpful those replies were. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to walk me through this.

We're planning on going to an RV show this weekend and doing some seriously looking about, so now I have a much better idea of what to look for!
 
I'm going to keep laying my math out here in the hopes that someone else can profit from my pain in the future... A little more information based on our vehicle sticker and the rambodybuilder.com guide:

Dakota 4x2 Quad Cab SLT, 4.7L V8, A5 Transmission
GVWR (Verified from sticker): 6,010 lbs
Payload: 1,480 (~600 lbs for us, plus lbs for fuel... should leave us ~650lbs ish which will need to incorporate tongue weight)
Curb Weight: 4,527
GCWR: 10,500
trailer weight according to ram builder: 5,800
Trailer weight according to GWVR (Trailer) = GCVWR - GWVR (TV) = 4,490 (assuming max payload)

If we reduce that by say 15% then need to look at a trailer around the ~3800 mark for a GVWR, not dry weight. Keeping in mind the point above about reducing payload by storing gear in the trailer, would want to look for one with a Cargo ability as high as possible. Did I get that right?
 
Musika, you're VERY close...

Most important thing to note on there is that, with rare exception, the curb weight includes a full tank of fuel. So, you don't need to deduct that from your payload allotment or your towing allotment.

Beyond that, I would say yes, you seem to have a grasp of how the numbers work (and how they interact), which will give you a much better foundation for what you are looking for. There is no single thing that is make or break (ie - you could find a trailer with a GVWR of 5,000 pounds that comes off the line at 3,400 and would work just fine - depending on how you load). The important thing is to have a sense of the interaction of the numbers, and it seems you do!

To that point, I will say kudos! I have seen many a story of people getting in over their heads on trailers that they quickly learn they can't handle, and others who throw safety to the wind and drive down the highway with the front axle barely meeting the pavement. You are taking the time to know what you are doing, which MANY do not.

Good luck on your search and have fun at the show!
 
I'm going to keep laying my math out here in the hopes that someone else can profit from my pain in the future... A little more information based on our vehicle sticker and the rambodybuilder.com guide:

Dakota 4x2 Quad Cab SLT, 4.7L V8, A5 Transmission
GVWR (Verified from sticker): 6,010 lbs
Payload: 1,480 (~600 lbs for us, plus lbs for fuel... should leave us ~650lbs ish which will need to incorporate tongue weight)
Curb Weight: 4,527
GCWR: 10,500
trailer weight according to ram builder: 5,800
Trailer weight according to GWVR (Trailer) = GCVWR - GWVR (TV) = 4,490 (assuming max payload)

If we reduce that by say 15% then need to look at a trailer around the ~3800 mark for a GVWR, not dry weight. Keeping in mind the point above about reducing payload by storing gear in the trailer, would want to look for one with a Cargo ability as high as possible. Did I get that right?

Very very close on the math. Fuel would be included in the curb weight, but anything that you have added in the cab would not be, ie..tools.
Your payload would also need to have the hitch weight itself deducted, with a weight distributions hitch this could be as much as 200lbs.
Dry weight as you have correctly surmised is an imaginary number, as no one tows without propane or batteries, or clothes.
Best of luck with your search, you have a good handle on the safety aspect so far.
 
Small update (for anyone who's curious)... we've narrowed it down to a Rockwood Mini Lite 2306 ... Murphy bed and bunk bed layout... Now to find one in our price range!!
 

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