Heading south in Aus - Another retrospective TR

Aussie Wendy

DIS Veteran
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Since PrincessInOz has decided to post her trip to South Australia last spring, and as a community service to the poor Victorians trapped at home who might be bored (you have my heartfelt sympathy) I decided I should join in. Our trip was a longer 3 weeks, from Brisbane to Kangaroo Island and back and we overlapped with PIO in the KI segment, as she will tell you, completely accidentally. So much of where we went was later burnt by the bushfires, it is heart breaking, but we are so grateful we got to experience the scenery and wildlife prior. This was my DH's chosen holiday, to celebrate a 'big' birthday (not a Disney - how could he!! but we had indulged in a winter European interlude in Feb of the same year) and a chance for him to take his new blue Ute on the road.
 
Day 1 On the Road Again...

The first day was one of our big driving days. Now DD is resident in Scandinavia, it's just us. We got away at 5.30am heading out of Brisbane and onto the Newell Highway with Gilgandra our destination, 820km away. It was a nice morning for a drive.

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Our breakfast stop is our long-time favourite when we take this route south; Warwick with Tiddalik. (For any non-Aussies who join us on the road, the brief version of the Aboriginal story - Tiddalik the frog swallowed all the water in the land causing a drought. The animals each tried in vain to make him release the water until Nabunum, the eel, danced a comical dance. Tiddalik burst out laughing and the water gushed from his mouth to replenish the lakes, swamps and rivers.)

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There was a new sculpture in the park since our last visit - a marble sculpture of a pair of Murray Cod, in recognition of the successful project to breed and stock the Condamine River with them (sculptor Paul Stumkat). Since we would be visiting the Murray at various points along the trip this was a fitting beginning.

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Throughout the trip we came across various example of silo art. This one at Yelarbon had only recently been finished.

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Dry lands between Moree and Narrabri.

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We were impressed with the new automatic toilets now installed in a popular park in Moree - one of those with auto timed door opening once you are inside (you have 10 mins to do your business!!), elevator music to accompany you, auto flush and auto dispensing water, soap and drier - in these times of Covid-19 these are an even better idea. At the time we thought they should be installed along the popular highways. With its well kept parks and gardens, over the years Moree has come on leaps and bounds from a tourist traveller point of view, since our first stops here in the early 1990s. Appears we neglected to take any pics this trip though.

Our destination for the night, a cabin in Gilgandra Caravan Park - we have stayed here on quite a few occasions and find it very comfortable. It was under new ownership and they seemed to be putting in the work to try and make improvements. This evening we took a stroll into town to stretch our legs and to source take away pizza for dinner (though the RSL Club here, where we have previously dined, comes well recommended). A big communal fire pit was popular with the campers this evening.

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Day 2 Heading South West to the Murrumbidgee

Today was another big drive, 710km, to Balranald on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River. The owner's horses were frisky in the morning mist in the pen behind our cabin (and very sweet).

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PIO's pics of Canola fields do them so much more justice! These are near Parkes (the CSIRO radio telescope observatory here is well worth a detour if this road is new to you - we have visited several times before so skipped as the focus was pastures new).

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Morning tea was by the lake in Forbes. We took a picture of the de Havilland Jet. For other road trippers on a first visit, Forbes Cemetery contains the gravestones of the bushranger Ben Hall and Ned Kelly's sister Kate Foster, as well as a Motor Museum which we haven't visited yet as we aren't all that interested in cars, and a historical museum.

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At West Wyalong we left the Newell and joined the Mid Western highway to Hay. Weethalle was a sweet little town along the way with some great silo art.

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We wished we had had longer to explore here as there was a museum with a cafe that did Devonshire teas and an interesting looking cafe (Road Kill Grillz! with a wolf playing the piano in the carpark - so why didn't I take a decent pic??). More nice, clean, fully provisioned toilets in the main street (always a consideration!!) and a friendly looking pub.

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We got into Hay in time for a late lunch and a stroll by the Murrumbidgee River before a visit to the Internment Museum.

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Hay's impressive old railway station

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The Dunera Internment Museum was housed in two railway carriages on the tracks behind the station. The first ignominy, Jewish refugees from Europe who thought they had escaped to safety, only to be treated as "enemy aliens" and kept here for a time.

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The museum was small but interesting with lots to read. The second ignominy, between December 1941 and their release in March 1946, approximately 1033 Japanese internees and 2600 Japanese POWs were held here. Most of the Japanese though were pearl divers and merchant seamen from Broome and Thursday Island, many born here, but as they were of Japanese race they couldn't attain citizenship. At the end of the war they were sent "home" to Japan, even though most of them had never ever been there.

Within months of the first internees arriving, they had dug irrigation canals creating productive farms that provided food for the camps and the war effort in general, giving a big boost to Australia's wartime economy. The farms produced lots of veggies and opium poppies, pyrethum daises and tobacco for drugs and insecticides. In the 10 months from 1 July 1943 to 30 April 1944 the farm produced 500 tonnes of vegetables, 9000 L of milk, 1.2 mill eggs, 3 tonnes of cotton, 170 tonnes of oaten hay and 341 bags of wheat. The vegetables not used in the camps were sent to be canned. Produce from the camps were marked with stencils like this.

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Tokens were used in place of money (to hinder escape attempts).

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While there was an uprising here (in June 1945) , it was not as dramatic as that which took place in Cowra. It is thought the Japanese interns feared they were to be executed if Japan surrendered and there were rumours Japan was losing the war. All they did was set fire to their mattresses (smeared with butter). Not all internees were impressed with life here though, expressed in this poem.

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From Hay we headed to our accommodation for two nights in the smaller town of Balranald, also on the Murrumbidgee, a budget-saving $95/night, in a motel with, we think, the best beds of the entire trip! A typical mum and pop country-style motel with a generous sized room, a queen and a single bed, ensuite of course and kitchenette with the usual bar fridge, microwave, toaster, and basic crockery and cutlery. Two nights as we had booked a 4WD trip out to Mungo National Park for the morrow, a long-time bucket list item but not one which we wanted to tackle in our Ute even if it is 4WD.

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Someone how do I make the pics a bit smaller? The smaller ones are resized to large from my computer files (as the orginals are way too big). The others are dragged and dropped straight from Facebook for quickness and ease. Might have to live with it in the latter's case so sorry.
 
Day 3 Morning Officially in the Outback

Our trip out to Mungo wasn't until the afternoon for sunset but we had a number of local sightseeing options to choose from. We headed out to Yanga Homestead, in Yanga National Park, built mostly in the 1870's. Snapped this pic on the way that we missed heading into town late yesterday. It's official we are in the outback.

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Yanga Homestead was the Riverina's most productive pastoral station and only ceased operations in 2005 when the area became part of the large Murrumbidgee Valley National Park. It is made from drop log construction.

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Lounging on the veranda

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with views of the currently vastly diminishing lake

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It's also officially spring

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At more busy times of the year you can obtain a key and tour the inside. As no-one was about we just peeked through the windows. It has been left furnished as it was when it ceased operations.

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Down on the shoreline you could see how much the lake has receded. It forms part of the Lowbidgee Floodplain, listed as a Nationally Important Wetland area in 2000 and one of the most significant wetland habitats and breeding areas for waterbirds in eastern Australia. It is also home to the State's largest known population of the endangered southern bell frog (didn't hear any!)

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There were not many waterbirds about at this time of day (late morning).

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We admired the river red gums along the lakeside walking trail. Young ones were colonising the newly exposed land while older versions like this one still fringed the edges.

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Further down the road we found the century old Yanga Woolshed, at 130 metres long one of the largest in the district. It used to accommodate 3000 sheep and 40 shearers at any one time and was last used in 2005.

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Inside

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A pic on the display boards from the old days.

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The sorting table.

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Modern electric shearing equipment.

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The last clip in 2005 in the middle of what is known as 'the millennial drought'.

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This deck marks the spot where the wharf was located. Paddle steamers towing barges tied up here to take the wool downstream to Echuca.

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It was very peaceful.

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Day 3 Afternoon; On the way to Mungo

This afternoon we joined Outback Geo Adventures for a trip to Mungo National Park, around 110km inland from Mildura. This area is famous for Mungo Lady and Mungo Man, whose burials have been dated to 42,000 years ago and are some of the oldest remains of **** sapiens found outside of Africa. Mungo Lady is also the oldest known cremation in the world. It also contains wind warped sand dunes piled high on one side of a former lake (part of a chain of the ancient Willandra Lakes), called the Walls of China.

The trip involved several hours driving on bumpy gravel roads with wildlife whose favourite hobby was playing chicken with the rare passing vehicle, especially at night, hence our decision to leave the driving to an expert. Doing a tour also meant we could walk up within the Walls of China with our guide. The only other way into this restricted area is to join a ranger guide which at this time of year was limited to one morning tour a day. There are two campgrounds close to the park so these tours normally quickly fill up.


Our guide German was very knowledgeable and entertaining, and a very safe driver. We only had one other couple on the trip with us so it was very personal. We made lots of stops along the way and learnt all about the different types and sizes of Saltbush (yes it tastes very salty), as well as to spot wildflowers and wildlife.

Our first stop was the historic Homebush Hotel, established in 1878 and the last operating hotel of the 17 that used to dot the road from Balranald to Ivanhoe (and once a Cobb and Co staging post). Normally this tour calls in for beer and pizza in the evening but today was closing day. We said hi to the publican who was tasting his wares outside and his two big friendly dogs.

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Saltbush lessons.

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The saltbush concentrates salt in its stems that turn red and then drop off, effectively removing excess salt from its system.

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Pretty pyrethrum wildflowers (I think)

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Slightly different variety

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Saltbush country with German

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Sheep on the road. The most popular sheep were Dorpers, all with cute little twin bubs (which the breed is known for). We also stopped a lot for lizards, kangaroos and goats and spotted emu in the distance.

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We crossed several of the ancient Willandra Lakes on the way. This pic shows the lip of the lake quite well. It ran in a great circle.

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Finally in the National Park, near the Visitor Centre where we stopped to eat a picnic dinner included on the tour and supplied by Balranald's Discovery Centre Cafe -very, very tasty and served with plenty of hot tea or coffee or juice.

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Inside the Visitor Centre, looking at the displays. An example of the megafauna which roamed this area. I was interested to learn that early Australian people and some megafauna co-existed at the same time though there is little evidence to show they were hunted by them, at least here. Most early people's campsites show they ate shellfish, yabbies, and fish from the lakes (which then were full), and small mammals like wallabies, bandicoots, bilbies and native rats.

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The Meeting Place

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Another former woolshed, nearby.

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The Walls of China in the background. The dunes are called lunettes, formed when the westerly winds blowing over the drying lake piled up layers of sand and then clay dust on the eastern side of the lake.

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Day 3 Afternoon; Sunset on the Walls of China

Walking out to the lunettes for sunset.

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You can only go among the formations with a registered guide. As the winds blow Aboriginal middens, fires and lots of human and animal bones are exposed, hence the discovery of Mungo Lady and Mungo Man. In 2003 they also found the 2000 year old Willandra footsteps, the only Pleistocene era footsteps found in Australia and one of only a few sets found worldwide. German says the guides are always finding things. They mark the spot then cover them back over so tourists aren't tempted to steal items, and report the find and location to the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service who inform the custodians of the land. This is an ancient firepit.

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Various pics of the surrounds before sunset

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Standing on the edge of the dunes looking east reminded me of the Carlo Sandblow at Rainbow Beach.

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The sun starts to set and formations with red clay in them glow.

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In this light, the green clay layer, which is very hard, shows up well.

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We made our way back to the van before it got properly dark. This is the lookout which is the furtherest you can go without a guide.

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On the way back we were especially glad it wasn't us driving. The number of animals that leapt out was very scary. DH was riding shotgun with German to help spot them but most of the time German was much quicker. At one time billions of sheep (so it seemed) streamed across the road - we were stopped for 20 mins - they kept coming then the last ones changed their minds, turned around, and back went the whole lot the way they had come. Wallabies and kangaroos of course kept nipping to and fro and rabbits. We got back to town around 9pm. It was a great afternoon and we can highly recommend this small company, who also run guided trips out to Yanga Homestead and the lake areas.
 
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Day 1 On the Road Again...

The first day was one of our big driving days. Now DD is resident in Scandinavia, it's just us. We got away at 5.30am heading out of Brisbane and onto the Newell Highway with Gilgandra our destination, 820km away. It was a nice morning for a drive.

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Our breakfast stop is our long-time favourite when we take this route south; Warwick with Tiddalik. (For any non-Aussies who join us on the road, the brief version of the Aboriginal story - Tiddalik the frog swallowed all the water in the land causing a drought. The animals each tried in vain to make him release the water until Nabunum, the eel, danced a comical dance. Tiddalik burst out laughing and the water gushed from his mouth to replenish the lakes, swamps and rivers.)

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There was a new sculpture in the park since our last visit - a marble sculpture of a pair of Murray Cod, in recognition of the successful project to breed and stock the Condamine River with them (sculptor Paul Stumkat). Since we would be visiting the Murray at various points along the trip this was a fitting beginning.

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Throughout the trip we came across various example of silo art. This one at Yelarbon had only recently been finished.

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Dry lands between Moree and Narrabri.

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We were impressed with the new automatic toilets now installed in a popular park in Moree - one of those with auto timed door opening once you are inside (you have 10 mins to do your business!!), elevator music to accompany you, auto flush and auto dispensing water, soap and drier - in these times of Covid-19 these are an even better idea. At the time we thought they should be installed along the popular highways. With its well kept parks and gardens, over the years Moree has come on leaps and bounds from a tourist traveller point of view, since our first stops here in the early 1990s. Appears we neglected to take any pics this trip though.

Our destination for the night, a cabin in Gilgandra Caravan Park - we have stayed here on quite a few occasions and find it very comfortable. It was under new ownership and they seemed to be putting in the work to try and make improvements. This evening we took a stroll into town to stretch our legs and to source take away pizza for dinner (though the RSL Club here, where we have previously dined, comes well recommended). A big communal fire pit was popular with the campers this evening.

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So glad you started the TR.

I know we did catch up and you did tell me about your drive down. But there is nothing like seeing the pictures here.

Those sculptures are amazing. Maybe one day!

And the caravan park cabins look incredibly familiar.
 
PIO's pics of Canola fields do them so much more justice!

Your canola field is lovely too. It's just earlier in the season for you when you were there and the flowers hadn't fully opened yet.


Weethalle was a sweet little town along the way with some great silo art.

I love this silo art. It's beautiful! Again. One day!



1033 Japanese internees and 2600 Japanese POWs were held here.

Thanks for sharing. I had read that Australia had interned the Japanese during the world war but hadn't researched or dug further than that. It's sad to see how they were treated.




we had booked a 4WD trip out to Mungo National Park for the morrow

Wise move. I believe you can only get in with a proper guide to the more scenic spots.
 
Someone how do I make the pics a bit smaller? The smaller ones are resized to large from my computer files (as the orginals are way too big). The others are dragged and dropped straight from Facebook for quickness and ease. Might have to live with it in the latter's case so sorry.

I'm just loading my images and then attaching them. Haven't really written a TR since the dis moved to the new platform.

Your images on my laptop look really decent. So, if you've downloaded from FB, it still looks amazing.
 
Lounging on the veranda


You look very comfortable! :)


At more busy times of the year you can obtain a key and tour the inside. As no-one was about we just peeked through the windows. It has been left furnished as it was when it ceased operations.

Might have to consider heading back to get a proper look inside. Looks like somewhere where there will be tons of history!


Down on the shoreline you could see how much the lake has receded

It does look low; but there still seems to be plenty of water?


It was very peaceful.

Super peaceful!
 
This area is famous for Mungo Lady and Mungo Man, whose burials have been dated to 42,000 years ago and are some of the oldest remains of **** sapiens found outside of Africa.

I had forgotten about the Great Dis Filter! :rotfl2:


today was closing day

Closing day? What do you mean? Were they closing for the season or for good?



The saltbush concentrates salt in its stems that turn red and then drop off, effectively removing excess salt from its system.

Such a clever bush!


Sheep on the road.

Lots of sheep! But that sounds like you saw a wide selection of native wildlife as well.


we stopped to eat a picnic dinner included on the tour

Yum!. Did it taste as good as it looked?
 
the guides are always finding things. They mark the spot then cover them back over so tourists aren't tempted to steal items, and report the find and location to the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service who inform the custodians of the land.

Imagine the amount of stuff that is still to be discovered. Such a special NP!




Love the golden glow of this image!


The sun starts to set and formations with red clay in them glow.

Wow! Amazing red from the sunset glow.


Thanks for sharing!
 
I'm just loading my images and then attaching them. Haven't really written a TR since the dis moved to the new platform.

Your images on my laptop look really decent. So, if you've downloaded from FB, it still looks amazing.
Loading? then attaching? Can you elaborate please? I am dragging and dropping straight from FB which is really quick and easy but shows large. The few not from FB I resized and they are the more manageable size but I cnaat be bothered resizing a whole swag!.
 
I had forgotten about the Great Dis Filter! :rotfl2:

Yeah so had I!!


Closing day? What do you mean? Were they closing for the season or for good?

Just for that day of the week. They open 6 days. Think it was a Monday.



Such a clever bush!

Yep


Lots of sheep! But that sounds like you saw a wide selection of native wildlife as well.

We did but pics of them weren't in focus as mostly we were inside the van as they darted across and over the plains without stopping to pose - unlike all the African animals seem to do in people's pics.


Yum!. Did it taste as good as it looked?
Definitely yes which means the Discovery Centre Cafe in Balranald would be a good place for breaky or lunch if passing through.
 
Day 4 Just a hop and a skip up the road to Mildura

We were awake early today so had a look around town before moving on. In retrospect we regretted not waiting to tour the Discovery Centre as I read later excellent reviews and we were disappointed with Mildura. Balranald has 16 frog sculptures scattered around town. We found around half.

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On the suspension bridge, part of a trail beside the river.


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A family of ducks

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More frogs!

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Outside the RSL

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Outside the library

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This is a town I could easily come back to.

Entering a new state

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Lunch by the Murray in Mildura.


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A visit to the Rio Vista Homestead and Arts Centre. The fountain is a replica installed in 1991. Following the drowning of her child in the fountain, the owner (William Chaffey's) second wife Hattie couldn't bear looking at it and it was donated to the town where it now stands.

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The hallway with the original Italian tiles. The video about the Chaffey family from California who built the home and who established the first irrigation scheme in Australia was interesting. I felt sorry that they took the blame from the gov't and settlers for failures in the early years that were largely outside of their control, especially given their dream of founding a successful fruit growing region was ultimately proved successful.

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The drawing and breakfast rooms


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New stained glass in the front door reflecting local images including Mildura oranges.
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Original stained glass imported from England.

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A curiosity in the bathroom, a Coiffure Tidy - which false ringlets would be wound around, together with ribbons etc.


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The Art Gallery here had lots of pieces from the 3rd National Indigenous Art Triennial. One or two samples follow.

Black Dog by Archie Moore, Kamilaroi people. Reflecting the racism and feeling of being subhuman, as well as the link between discrimination and mental illness.


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Assimilated Warriors by Karla Dickens, Wiradjuri people. Honours the many faceless warriors who fought for equality leading up to the 1967 Referendum. Resembling traditional ceremonial headdresses, and personalised to highlight individual campaigners.

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Custodian of the Blooms by Brian Robinson, Maluyligal/Wuthathi/Dayak peoples. This conceptually combines Brian's Torres Strait heritage and western popular culture. Flowers are symbols of fertility, abundance, harvest and regeneration and line the streets in every island in the Torres Strait.

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Captain James Crook by Jason Wing, Biripi people. Challenging the historical lie, such as embodied in the bronze sculpture in Hyde Park in Sydney, that Australia was 'discovered' by Capt James Cook.


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A change of pace, one of several woodwork sculptures in a series called Curiosities et al, by Oli Gasperini.

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A pretty watercolour by Mark Dober called Vineyard, created at an abandoned vineyard on the fringes of Mildura. By immersing the viewer in the beauty of a watercolour, his message intends to convey engagement and hope.

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Day 4 Evening on the Murray

Our bed for the night, another very comfy spot.

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We were given the larger 'Accessible' room. Had a good meal tonight at the Mildura Workers Club.

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But first evening at Lock 11 on the Murray.

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A VERY blurry pic of a Murray Cod jumping. All the pelicans looked fat and happy here!

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Sunset with a sea eagle.

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The eagle with the fake nest. The real nest is in a different, higher tree. At this point my camera ran out of battery - and I didn't have a spare with me - idiot, and DH also neglected to bring his zoom lens on this stroll!

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Not sure if you can see clearly enough, but this is the female eagle with her nest.

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Keeping a close watch.

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Reflections as we head back into town.

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Day 5 Wineries on Wednesday

Our first stop this morning on our 325 km drive was a short detour to Wentworth and the junction of the Murray and Darling Rivers. The Darling is the front river in the pic below, joining the Murray to the rear. The Darling is the 3rd longest river in Aus arising around the northern NSW Qld border but is under major threat from over-allocation of its water, pollution and pesticide runoff from farming activities along its route. Drought conditions have made things a lot worse of course. The Murray is Aus longest river at 2,508 km rising in the Australian Alps and emptying into the sea in South Aus - you'll see the mouth on a boat trip we take much later in this trip. It's in better condition than the Darling. (The 2nd longest for anyone interested, is our recent friend the Murrumbidgee.)

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A cute Green Rosella here

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The border between NSW and Victoria follows the wiggly line of the Murray here, with South Aus intersecting at right angles east of Renmark. Not far within the border you pass through quarantine control. We were thoroughly searched here - glovebox, back seats, esky's, the locked trunk and most boxes within it opened (looking for prohibited fruit and veg in order to protect their industries from the fruit fly). We had already checked this morning to make sure we were in the clear but it was much more stringent than our last fruit fly border crossing, several years ago, within NSW.

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The infamous Dunlop tyre and welcome to South Aus, our fourth and final state.

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One of many opening bridges on the Murray

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The Murray is impressively wide here near Renmark.

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Further down the road we visited our first winery, Banrock Station, makers of some of my fave wines and dating from the 1960s. They also had a wetlands walk. The below pic is early on the walk, looking back across the vines to the main tasting centre and cafe.

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Unfortunately this visit there were not much wetlands to view - it was drylands.

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Kangaroos, like us, were hanging out for a glass or two of red or white.

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Having sampled several wines at their free tasting, and loaded up the car with a box for 'ron, I enjoyed my favourite rose with their Hawker's Tasting Platter for lunch - very tasty (yes some food porn finally! Sorry this trip was about doing it on the cheap and self catering a lot).

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View from the deck. Online you can see under better conditions, the water can be visible from here.

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On the road again, Waikerie silo art. I was less fussed on this one.

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Though this Murray Hardhead is cute - they are an endangered, short-lived freshwater fish rapidly disappearing from the Murray and Murrumbidgee rivers.

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We now descended into the Barossa Valley, infamous for its food and wine. Our first stop in the valley was Maggie Beer's Farm Shop at Nuriootpa (for internationals Maggie Beer is a famous Aus chef including a popular TV show with colleague Simon Bryant, the Cook and the Chef).

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There they are. Several purchases, as gifts as well as for us, were made! Her cafe was popular but having eaten we resisted.

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Outside we admired the various caged birds - pheasants for the pot perhaps?

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Our bed for the night in nearby Tanunda, a cute little cottage. The weather had drawn in cold and rainy so it was nice to cosy up with the central heating.

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Day 6 Wining our way to the coast

The Barossa Valley houses over 150 wineries and was settled early in its history by immigrants from Prussia and Bavaria, giving it a strong German influence with Tanunda retaining some of the most Germanic character. Yesterday afternoon and today, before heading down to our cabin near Adelaide, we explored a little of this heritage inbetween downpours.

Tabor Lutheran Church established in 1850 and named Tabor after the mountain in the Old Testament. It was rebuilt in 1870 and enlarged in 1910.


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The Old Flour Mill, dating from 1848 but partially destroyed in 1921 and having had various additions since. Lots of old advertisements still.

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The historic Post Office and Telegraph Station dating from 1866 now an antiques shop and museum.


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Coming from Qld, vistas of Spring blossom are rare.

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Afternoon tea treats yesterday from the Tanunda Bakery (like Leonard from the TV sitcom 'As Times Go By', I have a penchant for custard tarts).

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Packing up late morning, the showers cleared to blue skies. We dropped into Chateau Barossa at Lyndoch, partly to see the garden, but it was too early for their rose display. It must be stunning in summer.

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Entry to the wine tasting and cafe area

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We found one or two individual roses in bloom

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There was lots of beautiful cherry blossom.

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One more... I love the depth of the pink (remember we don't see this often!!)

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Through raindrops lingering on the window, views of the green Barossa. It looks so green after the hundreds of kilometres of dry lands getting here.

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