Trip Report - Patagonia & Antarctica New Years 2023

Day 10 – Rite of Passage –

Yesterday, the captain had shared he expected we’d have 16-18-foot seas starting around midnight as we left the Shetland Islands for our return crossing of the Drake Passage. So, guess who wakes up at midnight to peek outside to see what’s happening with the ocean?

Calm seas -

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And 30 minutes later, we can just see a tiny little bit of a whitecap here & there, but nothing close to 16-feet seas, thank goodness! Also, one of our last looks at icy Antarctica -

Day 10 midnight 4.jpg

The AbD guides declared last night that today & tomorrow would be two more Pajama Days on board. We’re not going off the ship, so why not be comfortable? The plans for the day included a Marvel movie marathon in the theatre, a ping pong tournament in the lounge, name that Disney Tune game, and presentations by two of the Expedition Naturalists. We are also encouraged to order any photos or photo packages we want, that were taken by the Ponant photographers.

The green apples were back in the buffet, so I asked to have one sliced up for me. This is what the chef came back with, the most unusual apple slicing I’ve ever seen.


Day 10 apple.jpg

I asked for ginger ale with lunch, and found that the ship was completely out…guess along with that run on green apples last night, folks were also getting ginger ale. Well, not to worry, as I had a stash of three cans back in the fridge in my cabin…courtesy of my stateroom host keeping it restocked throughout the cruise. My friends also had some in their cabin, so we were set in case it was needed.

And, was it needed? No – for the expected mini-Drake-Shake never materialized. We were extremely fortunate in that we had the Drake Lake on both crossings for this cruise. There was a bit of wind in the early morning, but nothing to negatively impact the crossing. I’ve had rougher cruises out of New York.

Our morning Naturalist presentation was supposed to be Lison sharing on Antarctica discovery, but she had a bit of a cough. So, Lars stepped in to share about the 1911 Race to the South Pole between Robert Scott and Roald Admunsen. Since Lars is from Norway, Admunsen was from Norway, and there is the well-regarded Fram Museum (Norway Arctic exploration with Admunsen’s polar ship) in Oslo, it was the perfect topic for Lars to present.

Captain Fab had a noon announcement – we were 294 miles out from Antarctica and 374 miles to go to Ushuaia. The closest land to us at this point is the bottom of the ocean, 11,500 feet/3500 meters below us. Wind conditions, which weren’t really that much at all, will continue to lessen, and it is expected to be calm tomorrow. It is a balmy 43 degrees outside.

Our afternoon presentation was Singing with the Whales, by Tom – the Penguin Guy knows whales along with penguins! Another interesting session by the naturalists; I wish we’d had more while onboard. Here’s a funny thing about these presentations – they are scheduled at a specific time. When that time hits, the movie in process is paused, the presentation happens, and then the movie starts up again afterwards. It reminded me of the legendary NFL Heidi game – if you’ve not heard of it, Google it to see what that was all about.

By 4:30 pm, we once again had no wind and a perfectly calm Drake Lake.

Day 10 Drake mid day.jpg

The ship offered a raffle prize – for 10 Euros per ticket, which went to a Crew Welfare fund. This was a large, maybe 18x30, nautical chart of the area we had sailed on this cruise. One of the crew members hand-illustrated it with different sites and wildlife we had seen during the cruise. It was beautiful to see in person.

Day 10 raffle.jpg

At almost midnight on this day, we still have the Drake Lake -

Day 10 EOD .jpg


At our evening briefing, Captain Fab said we are making great time across the Drake, so will have an opportunity for a little surprise in the morning before we had back to Ushuaia. What will it be?
 
Day 11 – Land Ahoy!

It is our last full day on the ship. The AbD guides have more Disney movies for us today, along with some Disney Trivia and a craft activity.

Yesterday, Captain Fab said he’d have a surprise for us today. Once again, we’ve made great time across the Drake Lake and have a bit of extra time before we start heading up the Beagle Channel. What is our surprise?

Another AbD Antarctica first – we will make a detour to the west to sail past Cape Horn! This is also Expedition Leader John’s first time sailing past Cape Horn, and remember, this is his 130th visit to Antarctica. So, we know this is something special. Captain Fab sails us west, so the starboard side can see it and get pictures, then makes a U-Turn to sail back east so the port side has the views. This counts as another visit to Chile, since that’s where my phone has tagged the location for my photos.

First view -

Day 11 Cape first view .jpg

The sea was calm at the Cape, which Captain Fab said was very unusual.

Day 11 Cape Horn 0.jpg

Day 11 Cape Horn.jpg


Just visible on the horizon, the light house, a museum building, and a monument to lost sailors who have perished rounding the Horn, with a silhouette of an albatross. Since this is an unscheduled visit, we can’t get much closer.

Day 11 Cape Horn 2.jpg


Expedition Naturalist Lison is feeling better today, and shares her presentation on the Discovery of Antarctica with us this morning. Today’s Antarctica fun fact – it is 98% covered by ice.

After lunch, we have a disembarkation process overview, followed by our final recap with Expedition Leader John and our Expedition Guides. John shares that we saw and visited 13 different sites on our Antarctica adventure, and sailed a total of 1660 nautical miles.

One of the photo items offered by the Ponant photographers is a custom nautical chart, with all of the locations included on our sailing. These are unique to each cruise. To show their attention to detail – they’d already done the chart for those who had ordered one, and then spent this last morning updating it to include our sailing by Cape Horn. It makes for a great memory of this adventure.

Day 11 Chart.jpg


After two Drake Lake crossings and pretty calm seas all throughout our cruise including this morning, we’ve got our worst seas of the trip this evening as we start up and sail through the Beagle Channel. We had expected to be docked in Ushuaia approximately 09:00pm, however the winds were at 50 knots, seas were rough, and the port had closed. So, we had to stop short of the dock and settle in for the evening.


Day 11 Beagle start.jpg

Before dinner, we had one last meeting in the Theatre, with most of the crew coming on stage by department. The Expedition team had some final thoughts, and the AbD guides shared their end of adventure Power Point photo presentation.

Tomorrow, we start our journeys to home.
 
Day 12 – Goodbuoy!

We’ve got calm seas and a beautiful sunrise this morning!

Day 12 Sunrise 1.jpg

Day 12 Sunrise 2.jpg


Because of the rough seas overnight in the Beagle Channel, we were not able to dock in Ushuaia until 0700 this morning. By the time the ship was cleared, it was time to head to the busses for the trip to the airport, so we didn’t have any more time to wander around Ushuaia.

It's a beautiful day in Ushuaia!

Day 12 Ushuaia.jpg

We exited the ship by our color groupings we’d used all cruise for our expedition landings. A nice touch – the Captain and Cruise Director were there to see us off, and the entire expedition team was lined up along the gangway to also see us off. The guides are all leaving as well, because the next AbD cruise is not until February.

On the way to airport, each bus made a very quick photo stop by the Ushuaia sign. Once at the airport, we collect our bags and get checked in. It’s a much quicker process than in Buenos Aires for the flight down. We are scheduled for a 1215 departure.

On the flight, the guides come through and air-drop their presentation from last night to anyone who wants it, one per traveler group to save time as the file transfer times at 35,000 feet are not that quick. We get to Buenos Aires EZE airport, and collect our bags before either transferring to the international terminal or taking transport into Buenos Aires for those with a post-trip stay.

Several of us were flying American Airlines. When we got to their luggage drop counter, it wasn’t yet open. We had a short wait, maybe 20-30 minutes. (We’ve waited in Disney parks lines longer than that!) Remember my carry-on-only packing heroes from our flight down to Ushuaia? I saw him in the bag check line – he said they didn’t have room for their parkas in their carry-ons & did not want to have them on the planes, so were checking one small duffle for the trip home.

On the way to our gate, I saw this Argentina flag made out of Legos –

Day 12 Flag.jpg


I’ll close this report with a picture taken by one of the AbD guides, because I like it (an iceberg shaped like a heart from this angle) and couldn’t figure out where to place it in the report. It seems to fit here as a closing shot. It was an absolutely wonderful trip! We loved every moment, so many special memories….

Day 12 Love.jpg


If anyone has any questions, please let me know & I will try to answer them. On to the next adventure!
 
Absolutely loved your trip report. It makes me want to do this trip, and I had it earmarked for much later. I love all the "firsts" you guys got to do, and I would have loved to win that hand drawn chart--what a lovely keepsake and a great way to help raise money for the crew welfare fund. I take it you didn't win? I hope you got the custom nautical chart though?
 


Absolutely loved your trip report. It makes me want to do this trip, and I had it earmarked for much later. I love all the "firsts" you guys got to do, and I would have loved to win that hand drawn chart--what a lovely keepsake and a great way to help raise money for the crew welfare fund. I take it you didn't win? I hope you got the custom nautical chart though?
Thanks! I am still feeling so fortunate for our experiences there. No, I didn’t win the hand drawn chart. Yes,I did get one of the smaller custom nautical charts from the photo team; it was only €20, which I felt was a good price. The larger version was €40, but was too big for me.

Edit - it’s hard to see in pic of the whole chart, but the label in the upper right has the expedition cruise dates & ship name which is also nice to have included. In the lower right is Adventures by Disney name & logo,

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Thanks! I am still feeling so fortunate for our experiences there. No, I didn’t win the hand drawn chart. Yes,I did get one of the smaller custom nautical charts from the photo team; it was only €20, which I felt was a good price. The larger version was €40, but was too big for me.

Edit - it’s hard to see in pic of the whole chart, but the label in the upper right has the expedition cruise dates & ship name which is also nice to have included. In the lower right is Adventures by Disney name & logo,

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That is wonderful! I've stopped buying souvenirs after a massive downsize a few years back, but this is something that would definitely make the cut for me. Love things like this :)
 
Love your trip report!! I'm still not likely to do this trip (although never say never!) but I do enjoy feeling like I've seen what the trip is like! I love the nautical chart. What a fabulous idea!

Sayhello
 


This was a great trip report! Patagonia is next up on my bucket list, but we don't normally like cruises. This one seems to have so much to do that maybe it would be the best of both worlds. I keep stalking ABD trips but have never taken the plunge. Thank you so much for taking the time to post all of this!
 

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