Trip Report: July 5, 2014 Central Europe ABD (Austria, Germany & The Czech Republic)

Today marked the first full day of the ABD. Don’t quote me on this, but I think the meeting time to start the day’s activities was 8am. I forgot to mention in yesterday’s post that we had 42 in our ABD group, plus Jennae and Betti.

We started the day at Prague Castle with our local guide, Katarina. We took a bus (or should I use the European term “coach”?) from the Marriott up to the Prague Castle complex. Katarina took us through a different entrance gate than we had used when we visited Prague Castle on our own, so we appreciated the opportunity to get an additional perspective. There was a bit of a wait while tickets were purchased, etc. but it afforded an opportunity for photos and more getting to know you amongst the adventurers. We first visited the courtyard across from St. Vitus Cathedral. As most know by now, we weren’t able to enter St. Vitus because it was Sunday and a private mass was being conducted. After St. Vitus, Katarina led us into the Old Royal Palace where we saw the Vladislav Hall (the great hall that hosted indoor jousting tournaments, among other events). After the succession of the Habsburgs to the Bohemian throne, the interiors of the Old Royal Palace were used for coronation festivities, among other uses. Katarina also took us to the room upstairs where the Defenestration of Prague occurred. Again, no photos in the Old Royal Palace. After exiting the Old Royal Palace, folks had an opportunity to take a peek at St. George’s Basilica, and then we moved on to Golden Lane where there was maybe a half hour of free time. Just to refresh, Golden Lane is the lane of colorful cottages that houses the armory exhibit, some exhibits and shops and the torture chamber. Since we had visited Golden Lane previously, I used the free time to poke into a few of the shops and to visit the torture chamber near the exit of Golden Lane that I had not seen on our prior visit.

From Prague Castle, we walked over the Charles Bridge into Old Town. On our way to the Charles Bridge, we passed Prague’s version of the “bridge of locks” in Paris. Katarina paused to provide information about a couple of the statutes that line the Charles Bridge (there are 30 in total), including the statute of St. John of Nepumuk who was thrown off the bridge for not divulging the queen’s confessional secrets to King Wenceslas IV. This is the statue with the plaque that has been polished to a gold shine by many people rubbing it for good luck over the years. Tradition says that if you rub the bronze plaque, you will one day return to Prague. There is also another plaque that shows a dog and the queen, which is just as shiny from lots of rubbing, but has no special meaning, probably because not everyone knows the legend of John of Nepomuk, so they don’t know which plaque they should be rubbing. As mentioned in a previous post, the Charles Bridge was really crowded, since it was a weekend.

We reached Old Town Square just in time to see the Astronomical Clock’s mechanical performance at noon and pose for family photos in front of the clock. Katarina provided some information about the clock, but given the size of our ABD group and the crowds in Old Town Square, it was pretty hard to hear what Katarina was saying.

After the clock performance, we were turned loose for about two hours of free time in Old Town Square. Since we had been to Old Town Square a number of times by this point, we opted for a sit-down lunch and some relaxation. Other adventurers took advantage of the food carts behind the Old Town Hall for a quicker lunch to maximize their free time in the square. After lunch, we strolled around and did some more souvenir shopping. We found the street off the square that houses many of Prague’s designer shops (which leads to the Jewish quarter, for a little orientation). It was quite a jolt to see the prices at Cartier expressed in CZK since the exchange rate is 18 or 19 to 1!

After free time, we walked to the marionette workshop for our marionette making activity. The bodies of the marionettes had already been put together, with hair and facial features painted on. They looked very professional. Every adventurer picked a seat based on their preference for the gender of the marionette, hair color and outfit (and yes, a certain amount of trading occurred). The clothes for the marionettes were all handmade and were beautifully done. Essentially what the adventurers had to do to finish the marionettes was to string and dress them. The stringing part was actually quite challenging because the stings have to be appropriately taught for the puppet to move properly and the thread did not want to stay knotted. Luckily, there were a number of workshop assistants available to help with this process. The marionettes turned out great, and they were packaged up into paper tubes for later transport home.

After marionette making, we walked down to the Vltava River for a river cruise. Very relaxing (since most of the JAs sat downstairs, leaving the upper deck to the adults) with some great photo opps.

Then it was time for dinner at the Folklore Gardens, which is like a cultural center. The food was quite good, and we had the opportunity to sample some honey wine. We were also treated to a demonstration of Czech folk dancing, which was quite impressive. Some of the adventurers also got to try their hand at folk dancing. After dinner, the coach took us back to the hotel so adventurers could get ready for a 7am bag pull in anticipation of our departure from Prague the next morning.
 
Katarina provided some information about the clock, but given the size of our ABD group and the crowds in Old Town Square, it was pretty hard to hear what Katarina was saying.

They didn't provide you with a whisper audio device? That was also one nitpick we had on our Scotland trip. Since ABD is pushing the group limit to 45, it was very difficult to hear what our guide was saying on the streets of Edinburgh, and we had no whisper device. We thought 45 is just too large. Our Ireland group was only 31 and I think that is ideal. It somehow lessens the experience if you keep straining yourself to try and listen.
 
They didn't provide you with a whisper audio device? That was also one nitpick we had on our Scotland trip. Since ABD is pushing the group limit to 45, it was very difficult to hear what our guide was saying on the streets of Edinburgh, and we had no whisper device. We thought 45 is just too large. Our Ireland group was only 31 and I think that is ideal. It somehow lessens the experience if you keep straining yourself to try and listen.
I hope you let ABD know that! If they're going to increase the group size, they need to make sure you have whisperers! Otherwise, it's just too much work!

Sayhello
 
I hope you let ABD know that! If they're going to increase the group size, they need to make sure you have whisperers! Otherwise, it's just too much work! Sayhello

I did on the survey. I LOVE listening to what the local guides have to say and it was frustrating having to ask someone all the time, "What did he say?" And being short does not help. :D
 
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Our local guide, Katarina, explaining the significance of this decoration on the Prague Castle wall. I am embarrassed to admit I have forgotten the substance of the explanation!

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The entrance gate

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First group photo

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I won't repeat a lot of St. Vitus photos

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JA fun

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Getting ready for the changing of the guard

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Golden Lane

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An example of a Golden Lane cultural exhibit

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The torture chamber

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Not sure about the need for a stop light here!

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Prague's Bridge of Locks

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The bronze plaque of John of Nepomuk

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My chosen marionette and outfit

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Male bonding over marionettes

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Continued in next post...
 
They didn't provide you with a whisper audio device? That was also one nitpick we had on our Scotland trip. Since ABD is pushing the group limit to 45, it was very difficult to hear what our guide was saying on the streets of Edinburgh, and we had no whisper device. We thought 45 is just too large. Our Ireland group was only 31 and I think that is ideal. It somehow lessens the experience if you keep straining yourself to try and listen.

No whisper devices were provided for this walking tour. I agree that ABD is pushing the group size past the ideal. We had 34 on our Scotland trip last year, and it was much easier to get close enough to the local guide to hear what he/she was saying. 42 wasn't really bothersome otherwise, but I agree that I really want to be able to hear the local guides.
 
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Some of the professional marionettes on display

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Cruising the Vltava

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Notice the adult beverages behind me. I think two were included.

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The Folklore Gardens

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Thank you Calfan for this wonderful review and I sit on the edge of my seat to follow your trip. We traveled a couple years ago to Prague and LOVED our time there. We plan to return even though there are so many other places to visit in the world. We also travel with Tauck Bridges and they provide whisper systems for adults and kids and it really enhances your trip. We have told ABD on the questioners that they supply after your trip about supplying the whisperers but so far "nuttin'"....Love the pictures.:)
 
Thank you Calfan for this wonderful review and I sit on the edge of my seat to follow your trip. We traveled a couple years ago to Prague and LOVED our time there. We plan to return even though there are so many other places to visit in the world. We also travel with Tauck Bridges and they provide whisper systems for adults and kids and it really enhances your trip. We have told ABD on the questioners that they supply after your trip about supplying the whisperers but so far "nuttin'"....Love the pictures.:)

Thanks, carpenta! It's great to know folks are out there reading. I'm having a great time reliving the trip as I put this trip report together. We haven't traveled with Tauck yet but are definitely contemplating a couple of their itineraries.
 
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After free time, we walked to the marionette workshop for our marionette making activity. The bodies of the marionettes had already been put together, with hair and facial features painted on. They looked very professional. Every adventurer picked a seat based on their preference for the gender of the marionette, hair color and outfit (and yes, a certain amount of trading occurred). The clothes for the marionettes were all handmade and were beautifully done. Essentially what the adventurers had to do to finish the marionettes was to string and dress them. The stringing part was actually quite challenging because the stings have to be appropriately taught for the puppet to move properly and the thread did not want to stay knotted. Luckily, there were a number of workshop assistants available to help with this process. The marionettes turned out great, and they were packaged up into paper tubes for later transport home.

I don't know about the costume you worked on, but mine required actual sewing! The helpers did seem overwhelmed at this event, but I think everyone got their marionette done in one form or another. I love the picture of many of the guys working on theirs - classic!

I also love the picture of the girls in front of the guards. I have not been through our pictures yet - i hope I got that one too. Also love the crazy action shot. That group never stopped moving!

Can't wait to see each new posting to relive each day.
 
I don't know about the costume you worked on, but mine required actual sewing! The helpers did seem overwhelmed at this event, but I think everyone got their marionette done in one form or another. I love the picture of many of the guys working on theirs - classic!

I also love the picture of the girls in front of the guards. I have not been through our pictures yet - i hope I got that one too. Also love the crazy action shot. That group never stopped moving!

Can't wait to see each new posting to relive each day.

Wow! I did not know about the sewing part. Happily, I did not have to sew mine. But my knots kept coming undone and one of the assistants basically had to restring the whole puppet for me. But any one in my family will tell you I am not very crafty, so this is not shocking :)

I'm pretty sure the pic of the girls in front of the guards was one of the guide photos that I downloaded. If you can't find it, just let me know and I will send it to you (along with any other pictures you would like). Putting this trip report together is really the first time I am going through our photos.
 
Enjoying your review and looking forward to more! Your pictures are beautiful and you all certainly got a lot accomplished! We had whispers for our tour in Italy and it was helpful not only to hear, but to be able to wander without feeling like you were going to miss something; ABD should really just invest in those for every tour.

I love that pic of the girls jumping in the air!
 
As mentioned in yesterday’s post, we had a 7am bag pull today ahead of an 8am departure for the UNESCO World Heritage site of Cesky Krumlov. As has been our experience with both of the ABDs we have done, the breakfasts at the hotels (which are all included) are buffets, although, time-permitting, there are usually a couple of items you can order freshly made like eggs/omelets or pancakes. The Marriott’s breakfast buffet was good, but probably my least favorite among the three ABD hotels. That being said, I did really like the oatmeal at the Marriott with blueberries on top.

If my recollection is correct, the drive from Prague to Cesky Krumlov took about three hours. We stopped at a fuel station type rest stop at about the halfway point so folks could use the restroom, buy drinks and snacks, etc. The ABD guides were really good about distributing bottled water and snacks (ranging from apples to popcorn to chocolate and other candy) on the coach as well. The rest stop in the Czech Republic was perfectly adequate, but it pales in comparison to the rest stops in Austria (see below).

The adventure guides do a really great job of helping to make the longer coach rides less tedious. On our various coach rides throughout the trip they played themed music, told jokes (Jennae’s forte is cow jokes, and Betti’s is head-scratching “German” jokes) or provided background/commentary on the places we were visiting and the cultures we were experiencing. Betti gave a really interesting talk about the Berlin wall and cultural differences between West and East Germany and also the German educational system. They also play movies on the longer drives. And there is always the scenery to look at (with the exception of our drive to Vienna where we were mostly on a freeway that had walls on either side that hindered the view).

Cesky Krumlov is charming and unbelievably scenic. I posted some pictures on Facebook during the trip, and one of my friends commented that Cesky Krumlov is so gorgeous it almost looks fake. A local guide led us on a walking tour of the town. As noted in previous posts in response to some questions, we were not provided with whisper listening devices for any of our walking tours. While Cesky Krumlov wasn’t nearly as crowded as Prague, I still found that I needed to position myself pretty close to the guide to really be able to hear what he was saying. The walking tour lasted about 45 minutes to an hour. It ended at the entrance gates to the pink-towered castle. After the tour, we had about an hour and a half to two hours of free time to further explore Cesky Krumlov. From the end point of the walking tour, we opted to walk into the castle grounds in order to catch the views of Cesky Krumlov from the far side of the castle. If we had more time, we might have gone into the castle itself, but we wanted to make sure we had time to grab a bite to eat and visit some of the shops. I would have liked more free time in Cesky Krumlov so we could have wandered at a more leisurely pace. We found a great crepe place for lunch and took our crepes to go. The girls at the shop didn’t set any speed records for crepe making, but it was still quicker than a sit-down lunch, and the crepes were really tasty. We bought some Cesky Krumlov-themed gingerbread at one of the shops along with a decorative gingerbread plaque/tile. (The gingerbread shop is across from the castle gates where the walking tour ends.) I bought a cotton scarf at another shop for something like the equivalent of US$8. Since Germany and Austria both use Euros, we made a concerted effort to use the last of our Czech koruna in Cesky Krumlov. We found the prices in Prague and Cesky Krumlov to be really reasonable.

From Cesky Krumlov, it was about another three hours on the coach to Berchtesgaden, driving through Austria. Once again, we stopped at a rest stop at about the halfway point. The rest stops in Austria are amazing. They have full cafeterias with amazing spreads of food, as well as gift/sundry shops. They do charge for the use of the restroom, but the guides hand out Euro coins to cover the charge.

We had great weather the entire time we were in the Czech Republic. Temps started out in the low- to mid-70s on our first day and steadily increased during our six days in Prague. It was quite hot in Cesky Krumlov. That all changed when we arrived in Berchestgaden to rain and some welcome cool.

The Intercontinental in Berchtesgaden was our favorite hotel on the trip. Its setting is amazing, surrounded 360 degrees by the German Alps. The rooms all have some sort of view of the alps and are very well appointed. The hotel also has a great pool. The outdoor pool was closed while we were there, but the indoor pool got a lot of use by the JAs. The two pools are actually connected, and there are great views even from the indoor pool.

After arrival, the JAs headed off for a special JA night, and the adults had dinner on their own at the Intercontinental’s restaurant (on ABD). The food at the Intercontinental was the best of the trip, in my opinion. The schnitzel was amazing (I probably don’t want to know how much butter they used!) and I had an incredible crème brulee dessert. Dinner was very relaxing, which was well needed after a full day of sightseeing and travel.
 
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Our local guide in Cesky Krumlov

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Cesky Krumlov's plague column

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The 5-petaled red rose is the coat of arms and emblem of the Rosenberg family, an important Czech family, and is still often seen in a considerable part of southern Bohemia.

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Sporting my new Prague hat

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Bears in the old castle moat!

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To be continued...
 
Wow!! Cesky Krumlow is indeed beautiful! The sights are just breathtaking and you got perfect lighting that day which is great for wonderful photos with no harsh shadows. :) I think it's funny your local guide is wearing a Hawaiian shirt. ;)
 
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Views from the castle

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Inside the castle complex

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Another bear shot

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The gingerbread decorative plaques

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The Cesky Krumlov-themed gingerbread

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Scarves in the lower left. Lots of the shops had them.

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My son's crepe in the making

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The amazing rest stop food and beverage selection

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Scenery from the coach as we approach the Alps

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Evening views of and from the Intercontinental

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Hi Calfan,

Did you visit the new museum very near The Intercontinental Hotel & what were your feelings on being there ?

& did you travel in the Brass lift nearby .?

( I will not say anymore to spoil other peoples expectations )

Last year We did the trip by car.
 
Hi Calfan,

Did you visit the new museum very near The Intercontinental Hotel & what were your feelings on being there ?

& did you travel in the Brass lift nearby .?

( I will not say anymore to spoil other peoples expectations )

Last year We did the trip by car.

Woodview, we did not have time and were not given any opportunity with the ABD to visit the museum or the Brass lift. I know from reading another trip report that on an earlier running of the trip (could have been the first), adventurers were given the opportunity to visit the Eagle's Nest in the morning on Day 5 (the Salzburg day), but this was not offered on our trip. I'm not sure I would have gone. The guides did give the background about the area's connection with Hitler, but it was largely downplayed after that. I was not particularly troubled to be in the area. (I am Jewish, but not at all religious.) I mostly just appreciated the setting and beauty of the area.
 
Wow - this report is just getting better and better! I think you listen way better than me and remember better too? And I love how you have photos of everything - thanks for bringing back awesome memories!
 
Wow - this report is just getting better and better! I think you listen way better than me and remember better too? And I love how you have photos of everything - thanks for bringing back awesome memories!

Thanks! So glad you are enjoying it. I have a pretty good memory, and taking lots of pictures helps. But I will admit to Googling a few things to refresh my memory on the details, LOL.
 

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