It's all about Rides and Rocks (the trip that nearly wasn't) TR starts page 6

Sunday Nov 2 Mesa Verde to Monument Valley

Part 1 A history lesson at Mesa Verde

We slept great but woke early. Daylight saving ended overnight so had heaps of time this am for some diary and netbook time. It was very dark outside and kept lightening and thundering and pouring down so we had grave doubts we would be able to see Mesa Verde, which commenced winter hours today.

Had a nice buffet breakfast of freshly made waffles and banana. This hotel was another with a breakfast room with a big fireplace for winter. We headed out into the rain. Along the way look what we struck - snow!



Clouds rolling in (to left of pic)



The plateau is covered in cloud but there is blue sky!



At the Mesa Verde National Park Visitors Centre there were others also enquiring about the route up the mountain but apparently all was good. We found that we didn’t need to book for the winter tour, just turn up at the time.

A pic of the sculpture outside showing an ancestral Puebloan climbing up a cliff face using toe and hand holds with a pack of wood on his back.



In the Moment by Joe Cajero Jnr, me and a storyteller



It was a slow trip up the mountain but with good views til the clouds rolled in.





Driving through dense cloud in one spot, a very hesitant the whole time car in front chose to pull over and as we passed him, we saw in the rear view mirror he turned around (probably more dangerous than keeping going!) but we were soon out of the cloud and waiting to go through the tunnel. Here a pack of coyotes crossed the road behind the car that was behind us-hence we only got a quick look at them in our side mirrors and they were gone.



Either wild turkeys or Kori Bustards – anyone know?



We parked at Chapin Mesa and had a look at the museum and watched the film while we waited for our 10.30am guided tour to Spruce Tree House, the only house open in winter-time and requires a guide unlike summer.

**History alert** . This is the largest archaeological preserve in US with 4000 known sites dating from AD550 to 1300. The oldest known inhabitants built subterranean pit houses grouped together in pueblos (villages) on mesa tops (that are 2000 ft high) around 750AD. After up to 600 years of living on top of the mesas, around the 1200’s they moved into shallow caves & recesses in the cliffs and constructed complex cliff dwellings. In comparison they only stayed here around 75 to 100 years. The ledges were less exposed to weather (and much warmer in winter with angle of the sun) and easier to defend from attack and it is not known why they all, relatively suddenly, moved out though a long drought and food shortages are postulated as reasons. It is believed they joined communities further south who now form the 19 pueblos of New Mexico.

Looking down towards Spruce Tree House





Our guide showing us an ear of blue corn that the Pueblos would have grown that had a much higher protein level than our yellow corn, and explaining how they bred them to produce more rows per ear of corn.



A close-up from the top



DH panorama



The average lifespan of the people is believed to be 35 and a couple of generations lived in the cliff houses which were constantly being added to. Spruce Tree House is the third largest in the complex with 130 rooms. I would like to come back one day to walk around Cliff Palace and Balcony House where you can go further in amongst the rooms.

Showing how the walls neatly meet the ceiling of the alcove and the unusual T-shaped doors in some. There is debate as to whether the T shape doors have a practical function or are symbolic. In front are kiva’s with restored roofs. Towards the back of the area the ceilings are covered in soot caused by fires.







Remnants of coloured plaster used to decorate the walls (cross hatch pattern) and part of the balcony struts



Stone mutates (used to grind grains into flour) with large manos (or grinding stones)



A ceremonial kiva, one of 8 in Spruce Tree House



This pic shows the traditional layout with the rock to deflect the fresh air coming in through the vent and the fireplace. The little hole in the floor beyond the fireplace, the sipapu, represents the underworld through which the Puebloans believe their ancestors pass from one life into the next.



Inside one of the restored kivas. It was nice and warm.



Looking back up at Chaplin Mesa Archaeological Museum



Looking along the ledge



 
Part 2 Driving around Cliff Palace and Mesa Top

Walking back up to the museum, we actually got hailed on very briefly then the sun came back out. We cleaned up supplies of cheese and ham and crackers and chips from our travels yesterday for lunch watching this little fellow.



Then we drove around Cliff Palace Road to various overlooks.

Cliff Palace, the largest complex with 150 rooms that you can tour in summer



Cliff Palace zoomed in to show some detail



Looking along the valley from Cliff Palace Rd I think



More cleft complexes in the opposite walls, another from somewhere along Cliff Palace Rd (I think)





From Mesa Top Loop Rd possibly



Square Tower House



Sun Point View



More houses in clefts, don’t know which ones. I was just amazed by the fact every ledge along the cliffs had some structure in it.




A view of Sun Temple on the opposite cliff.



Looking into Sun Temple, most likely a ceremonial building but has beautifully shaped stone.



We had another big drive ahead of us this afternoon but that didn’t stop us detouring to Park Point, the highest point in the park with some stunning views of the surrounding area.





Different direction



Distant snowcapped mountains in Colorado



A view over the park



Back on the highway we stopped in Cortez at a Safeway supermarket and stocked up on some supplies for Monument Valley, taking the advice of PIO. We were impressed by the packer who noted my request to put the cold items in one bag together to help keep them cool for the trip and who raced off to chip us some dry ice (you can’t even buy that from supermarkets any more in Aus) from a large icebox full and put it in plastic to keep our items cold for the afternoon’s journey. Now that’s service!
 
Part 3 Driving into the sunset

We then had several hours of driving through nothing. No homesteads or livestock, just miles of low scrubby hills on HW 160, following the Trail of the Ancients, the first National Scenic Byway in the US.

Possibly in Ute Mountain Tribal Park



\


We did detour down to Four Corners Monument, the only “quadripoint” (I didn’t know that term existed) in the US marking the junction of the states of Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Arizona. By the time we arrived here it was about to close, all the Indian sellers had gone, and it was freezing cold with a bitter wind. Hence a very quick pic (not including the one DH took of me with the most ridiculous look on my face while standing on the marker).





We retraced our steps back north up the 160 for 6 miles and took HW 162 north to Bluff. More empty landscapes like outback Aus.



Passed lots of oil drilling equipment.



The sun was setting near Bluff



Bluff itself was set at the base of some striking rocks. If we had been earlier in the day I would have liked to have visited the pioneer museum here with their recreated covered wagons and cabins. Another time!



From Bluff we were on the 163 heading west and into the sunset.





Mexican hat flashed past at mile 25.



The driver's determined look he gets when he wants to get to where he’s going





At mile marker 13 we had to stop for the classic Forrest Gump shot with almost silhouetted formations in the background and an almost full moon.









Finally we arrived at The View Hotel in Monument Valley around 6pm. The national park entrance booths were closed so we were told at the hotel we did not have to pay the park fee. Those of you who followed PIO TR will know how lovely this hotel and its rooms are. On PIO advice we had chosen a second floor, Premium View room. For tonight we heated our Lean Cuisine meals in the microwave, finished off with chocolate biscuits and a cuppa and hit the sack; we had a sunrise tour at 5am awaiting!
 
WOW! Mesa Verde! The last time I saw Mesa Verde, it was in winter and it was snowing when we were there. I think it's such a special place and I hope you enjoyed being there. So much history and so much unknown about the Ancients.

You and DH sure covered a LOT of ground driving. Isn't 4-corners the oddest thing to find out in the middle of nowhere? At least you got to see it without the native traders around.

Looking forward to seeing what you got up to at Monument Valley and I hope the room on the 2nd floor worked out for you.
 


It was gorgeous with views like yours - pics to come! Mesa Verde in winter with snow would be awesome. So you haven't been able to tour the other houses then either yet? A friend has some amazing pictures climbing around Balcony House and in Cliff Palace. She's the friend who has been living in Dubai the past few years and her and her hubby have wracked up so many amazing experiences - Israel, Jordan, Egypt, all around the the Med, Africa, South America, the Amazon, the Galapagos, and a couple of years ago the US grand circle with MV, Mesa Verde, Yellowstone etc.
 
Not yet. I have unfinished business in that part of the world. I don't know when I'll be back. Maybe I could talk DH into thinking about visiting with his cousin again in the future and then we could stay longer to spend more time at Mesa Verde.

Your friend sounds like she's living the Michael Palin life I know I should be living. :rotfl:
 
I know - jealous hey!! But she is just about over it and wants to move back to Aus and spend time with her grandkids. I think her hubby wants to put in one more year there but she has just retired (teacher-she taught at an English school just over the border in Sharjah) so she can have longer visits back here with them til he is ready to retire back home. They plan to spend 6 months after he finishes travelling.
 


Just wanted to let you know that I'm still reading and enjoying your TR as I get time.

There's been far too much to comment on everything, but loving all your pics :goodvibes
 
Thanks Zanzibar. I haven't got to your mini Thailand report yet. Work is getting busier! This weekend! For now bed calls.
 
Mon Nov 3 Monument Valley

Part 1 Desert Songs

Our welcoming room that greeted us last night



We set the alarm for 5 and had a coffee before meeting our guide for the sunrise tour in the foyer of the hotel. It was still pitch black and freezing cold so were glad to jump into his heated 4WD. My main motivation for booking this tour was not so much sunrise photographs as we could get those from our balcony, but being out in the desert at sunrise with few others around; something we had experienced at Uluru several years ago. I had said I was happy to have others join us but in the event it was just us and our guide, Will Cowboy from Navajo Spirit Tours. This company rates amongst the best on TA and Will has quite a personal following so I was quite excited to see we had been lucky enough to have him as our guide.

As it turned out the only disadvantage of choosing sunrise was we spent a lot of time in one spot waiting for the sun to rise for photos and we didn’t see any of the back country off the public 17 mile loop road as I would have liked to have done. If I had realised this in advance I am sure Will would have tailored the tour to suit us as I have read they have others – it was just a case of mixed understanding as most people wanting sunrise want to take photographs first and foremost.

Our first stop was just down the road to get some silhouette pictures. Started off a bit awkward as we didn’t quite realise what Will was getting at and then couldn’t really think of any “poses” we wanted to do. Will helpfully suggested people do yoga or Tai Chi poses or handstands etc but since we don’t (can’t!!) do anything like that and are pretty much shy introverts, we just stood there! Ah well. I still quite like our pic.



Passed en route, the 3 sisters



We stopped again to get some pics from here



And then spent a good 30 mins in this spot just a bit further down (I should have written down the names of where we were at the time).







From here we watched the rocks start to glow red like they do in central Aus, long before the sun actually crested the horizon.







Our tour guide Will



And the car we were in



We found Will very easy to talk to and learnt a lot about various Indian legends and his early life growing up in nearby Mystery Valley. We also heard a lot about current Navajo politics and lifestyle. Monument Valley income like many sources of Navajo income goes to a central Navajo governing body and then it is redistributed. However, most unfairly, tribes who have casinos get to keep almost all their income, it is not redistributed, which results in some Navajo areas being much more wealthy while others struggle. Sounds like typical politics to me!

Here is the sun finally making an appearance long after it felt like broad daylight.









We were interested by all the animal tracks across the dunes which Will identified for us. Coyotes had passed by.





This formation is called the Totem Pole and the Yei-Bi-Chei ( a holy figure amongst the Navajo) with what looks like a line formation of several different Yei-Bi-Chei dancers. This is one of my favourite pics



A close up of the dunes









 
Part 2 Desert Songs continued

On the way out to our next stop Artist’s Point we paused at one of the “hands”. In Navajo the five digits in the hand represent the people of the world who originally set out to find food and medicines and divided into five branches. One branch went where the sun was hot and developed black skin, one went to where it was cold and developed white skin etc thus the Navajo believe we are all one people who just speak different languages or have a different way of living our lives, and thus the Navajo do not understand bigotry.



Pictures taken at Artist’s Point where Will treated us to two Navajo songs. The echoes and acoustics were amazing. One was designed to woo your woman (DH was told he had to sing to me like that), the other was a hunting song with the beat of the drum matching the rhythm of the horse as the best accuracy for shooting the short bow was when all four horse hooves were off the ground.

Pictures taken here.














The View Hotel on its ridge in the far background



Distant snow capped mountains



Now to John Ford’s Point, named obviously for the film director John Ford who shot a lot of his western films here. It was still so early it was deserted; even the local traders hadn’t set up their stalls yet.

Looking towards the Three Sisters and Mitchell Mesa





Rain God Mesa I think



Some more stops on the way back to the hotel.



Mitchell Butte





We arrived back at the hotel at 8.30am. While I had been disappointed we didn’t see some of the sights like the Eye of the Wind arch, we did enjoy touring in a proper heated car and having a personal tour with just us and the desert.

Back in our room with the sun streaming in we ate breakfast (having bought supplies for breakfast and lunch yesterday) wrapped up on the balcony





DH then decided we should walk the one trail open to the public in the Valley, Wild Cat Trail. This is about 3.5 miles duration around West Mitten Butte which we could see from the balcony.

The entrance to the hotel in daylight



And one showing all the balconies facing the valley



I had debated about booking a tour of the adjoining Mystery Valley in the afternoon but DH was keen to have a lazy afternoon snoozing or watching movies rather than more touring, and since I didn’t take much convincing I must have also been feeling like some down time too. I strongly debated booking a horse ride though I am not up to my DD’s standard. On the walk to the head of the Trail we passed the touts in the carpark, touting for horse rides and Valley tours in open trucks. They all looked a bit disreputable and “dodgy” though and the clusters of men around each booth was kind of intimidating so I decided against it since it would be just me.

Examples of sweat lodges in the shape of the hogans the Navajo live in, near the hotel. They have separate ones for males and females with the shapes pretty obviously representing the male and female. Most children still go through the traditional sweat lodge ceremony at puberty.



A view of the new cabins you can now also stay in

 
Part 3 Lost in the desert

On the Wild Cat Trail



Looking back up at the hotel on the ridge



DH in the dunes



The trail seemed much longer than its advertised length. It was a steep descent to the valley floor then it wound around up and over dunes and through dry river beds. Close up the landscape was surprisingly undulating.

Sentinel Mesa



We took a lot of pictures of West Mitten Butte at various angles.



My weird get-up because we came out and discovered it was freezing. DH ran back for beanies and jackets but I was too lazy to go with him and change into jeans.



At one point two horseriders with a native guide came past. Damn, I could have joined them!!



We were so busy chatting following the trail which at one point wound along a dried riverbed that we failed to notice we had gone off-trail til we realised our intermittent white rock markers were nowhere to be seen and the Butte loomed up large right next to us whereas we were meant to be circling it. Oops. So now I appreciate how easy it is to get lost in the desert. It became surprisingly hard to find that elusive track. We tried to back track but without much luck and in the end it took some scrambling up and over rocks to finally spot a white marker quite some way away and head across country to it and get back on track. We weren’t too panicky as you could see the hotel on the far horizon up on its ridge so if all else failed we could just head off across country to reach it - but still. Lesson learnt. Pay attention!

Some time just after this pic I think we got lost



Before this however, we saw some chipmunks or similar mammal. They moved very fast.



A lizard



Some sort of fruits or seeds



Around now a friendly dog came bounding up to us out of nowhere and walked with us for a time before two runners ran past and he turned around and bounded off with them. I discovered later he is the resident dog – well, I guess belongs to one of the native guides, who obviously likes to accompany people on the trail!

A pic of him taken the next morning




Merrick Butte



DH a speck in the desert







Me with Castle and Stagecoach Buttes behind





Showing the area we walked

 
Part 4 Sunset

By the time we got back it was getting very cloudy and cold. Had our supermarket supplied turkey and salad for lunch with the view and then DH watched a Van Helsen movie on Foxtel and I headed down to the warm foyer for some internet time in a comfy couch with the glorious view in front of me and gentle “hippy” music playing. Very relaxing.



Kachina figures on the stone fireplace



Lots of sculptures in and around the foyer





Rugs on the wall



Back in the room with a now needing charging Netbook, I might have had a snooze…til sunset meant we had a commitment for more photo taking. We took some from our balcony and then headed out around the front of the hotel where we discovered it was FREEZING! Sunset wasn’t great this evening but we took far too many pics anyway. Here are just a couple all showing much the same thing, including the tiny speck of a full moon!









DH freezing and complaining I must have taken enough pics by now!



Then it was time for dinner in the View’s restaurant. It was cheaper than I expected though not a lot of options if like me, you can’t eat chilli. Soup and salad was included with any main meal. I had a taste of the safer-sounding soup (forget the type) which was still too hot and therefore I didn't eat a lot of it, and salad.



Then I had country fried steak and DH tried the mutton stew with traditional Arizona Bread (a type of flatbread).





My steak was quite nice and it was good to have some simple veggies again. After dinner we explored the gift shop for a while. A good range of items but all very expensive. I did buy myself a CD of flute music and then we went to bed early as all this fresh air had tired us out!
 
Tues Nov 4 Off to Page

Part 1 Sunrise over Monument Valley

We were awake to see sunrise as we had gone to bed so early and this meant we got away by 8am for our next destination, Page. Here are an assortment of pics all taken from our balcony.

















 
Part 2 Visual Overload

We hit the road not long after 8 and so were in Page by 10. Some sample pics of landscapes out the window along the way that reminded us of a road trip to Darwin via Mt Isa we took one year.



Are you sure we are not in Aus?







Our purpose in visiting Page was to see the oft advertised Antelope Canyons. After much uuming and ahhing I had earmarked Lower Antelope Canyon rather than the more popular Upper Canyon since this time of year was too late for light beams. This gave us the option of visiting Upper Antelope Canyon tomorrow if we felt it necessary. When we pulled in near the Navajo power station, there were two companies side by side and we randomly chose Ken’s Tours who are building a new, more permanent visitor's centre here. We were able to get on the next tour departing at 10.30am.

The tour was amazing and our Navajo guide, who might have been called Justin, was excellent at making sure everyone had their cameras/phones/iPads set to the best settings possible for photography and took lots of pics for people inside the canyon as well as imparting various information on what we were looking at and native legends-which I have promptly forgotten.

The canyon was very narrow and windy and involved climbing up and down stairs. Like all the canyons it is prone to flash flooding and in 1997 11 people were killed when a flash flood went through. Now they have more safety features like cable nets installed and are very careful to close the canyon if there is any hint of rain upstream. Apparently you can still see sunbeam effects in this canyon (I had thought not) like Upper Antelope, but we needed to be on the 9.30/possibly the 10am or a late afternoon tour – very narrow window this late in the year - so didn’t see one. However, the colours and whirls of carvings on the stone are spectacular. To me many of the images look like soft swirls of gelato.

This pic is heading into the crevice that marks the start of the guided tour.



Not for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia.



Some “gelato”



Unusual shapes in the rock



Showing the narrow passage



The first set of stairs we descended




I bet this feature had a name




More swirly bits







And one of us



Climbing up into another section showing one of the group emerging







I just love the warm colours



Another one of us. It would have been good to get a pic of this feature by itself but with groups constantly coming through you would have to be lucky. They did a good job really of keeping space between this tour co and the other groups so we got time to take photo's most of the time without others in it. You can pay more and do a non guided photographic tour if you have a tripod but it would be frustrating as you would only get brief intervals when no-one was there.












 
Part 3 More of a visual feast

These pic is among my favourite












Starting to climb out



The crevice showing how disguised the canyon is if you just were hiking past






By now we were hungry and I was craving some junk food so where else but McDonalds! It looked new and we were highly impressed – it is the cleanest McDonalds I think anywhere in the world I have visited. It even had self flushing loos and self-adjusting water to wash hands with etc. I had a McRibs burger and fries (yum) and DH a quarter pounder. Noticed how much smaller these have got over time!

It was still only 12.30 so couldn’t check into our hotel, a Comfort Inn and Suites yet. We drove around town and decided to head out to Lake Powell as we were too full as yet to attempt the hike to Horseshoe Bend. In summer the signs indicated they charge you $15 to get in here so you would want to be making a proper visit of it, not just a drive by. At this time of year the gates weren’t manned so in we drove. I presumed the boat trips on the dam would not be operating given the low season so didn’t visit the marina but have since realised they might have still been running the shorter tours. Never mind. We stopped often to take pics.

Looking towards Glen Canyon Dam wall and the town – all the bright green is the golf course




Looking towards the Navajo power station and Antelope Canyon area.



Looking down the lake. The dam was built in the early 1960's and was opposed by conservationists due to its ongoing impact causing changes in the lower Colorado River but it has brought water to the south-west communities. It is much lower now due to an 11 year drought.



At the day picnic area just before the campground we parked to use the facilities and strolled down to the swimming beach. Hot and exposed - can you imagine what this would be like in summer! Aagh! It was bad enough today, the water looked very silty, and the trudge back up the path from the water’s edge was surprisingly enervating.







So on to the hotel. The dude on reception was a bit dopey but our room was ready and typical of a Comfort Inn anywhere, quite comfortable! The indoor pool was more unusual and looked nice but we never got round to trying it.

 
Part 4 Ending the day with Horseshoe Bend

We vegged for a bit then drove out of town to infamous Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado River.

This is a bit of a hike. This pic is taken from the cliff side looking back up at the low ridge you climb up from the carpark and over down to the river cliffs.





I like the way the shadow looks like the photographer is being pushed over!



Me on the edge





We have all seen the view somewhere but great to see first hand. It was however, getting a bit late with shadows and probably coming here after lunch might have been a better idea (however, I am sure we would have been struck with needing a loo after Macca’s and none in sight!)





We spent quite some time looking and sitting and enjoying the ambiance before hiking up and over the hill back to the carpark. I didn’t quite realise how late it was and probably should have just waited to see the sunset out there as by the time we were the 2 miles back in town and parking at Walmart the sun was going down.

We enjoyed poking around the store, though I thought the clothing is no cheaper than that sold in Kmart, Target or Big W here, e.g. cheap production line jumpers were still $17 so decided it’s just designer fashion that is cheaper in the States. Australian bottles of wine were cheap though:



We had planned to go out for dinner tonight but in the end a lack of energy prevailed and once again, we had simple takeaway meals from Walmart heated in the microwave and OMG I can’t believe how good they were. They were easily as good as many a restaurant meal I have eaten. I had turkey breast in a honey pepper sauce with roast sweet pots, red skin pots, beans and cranberries. I think DH got a pasta and meatballs of some sort, he said equally as good, accompanied by a (cheap) bottle of wine. We finished up with two huge slices of New York cheesecake, from the deli section in Walmart, a plain slice and a chocolate that we divied up and that tasted as good as any cheesecake factory cheesecake – so our dinner cost us a grand total of $7 for food + $5 for wine!! There are some things I truly love about America!!
 
wow. the landscape is absolutely breathtaking. I've never seen a view like that from a balcony of hotel before.Looks fantastic
 

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